Monday, November 17, 2014

An Update: 11/17/2014

An Update: 11/17/2014


Ummm, I'm not even sure where to start this one.

My mom and I were out Christmas shopping yesterday and started talking about blogs and things.

Me: I'm just so tired of seeing video after video and blog after blog doing these super glamorized photos and stuff. It's like- I'm shooting every damn thing I do on my iphone and it's not even a GOOD iphone. I literally dropped it in water and now it sucks.

Mom: Oh I noticed that. All the photos look like a magazine.

Me: I know! And it's everything! It's mommy blogs with well-dressed children, and makeup blogs with perfectly clean, untouched palettes and girls who look like they just woke up in this magical land of beauty. (insert angry coffee sipping). I hate my life right now. I'm really hating the comparison problem right now. I go on facebook, instagram, whatever- and because everyone posts all these beautiful amazing things it makes me think that they have these amazing lives- and I'm the only one living poor, unmarried, and childless.

Then Mom laughed, and she laughed pretty hard. Admittedly, I was being super weird and basically explaining the complex that's come into my life and when it was said out loud- I realized how stupid I was being, and even I had to laugh.


So here's why I haven't posted lately:

My anxiety and depression have been really insane lately. 

That's really it. I wrote a long-winded post about what exactly is happening, but a) I don't think it would be a good idea to post it and b) I don't think it's really going to do anything helpful.

I'll just sum it up:

Sometimes, without explanation, I'll turn into a recluse, a hermit, a Sasquatch in Canada. It's mostly because I'm feeling really sensitive and it makes interactions for me a little harder than normal. I'm usually pretty good at forcing myself to get out there and suck it up but for right now- I'm just enjoying doing my own thing. 

I'm finally at the point where I feel ready to write, dittle around on facebook, etc. So you'll see more posts coming through and (hopefully) a little more on a timely schedule. 

I just wanted you, my friends and readers (who I consider friends), to know that I'm back and I'm here. I didn't desert you and in fact I've got some stuff lining up so maybe it'll get me back into the spirit of things.

And I promise I'm ok, I'm fine- nothing bad or crazy happened at all. I'm just moody and sensitive.

Surprised you didn't it?

Yes, despite my sarcasm and rough nature- I'm actually incredibly sensitive and I take everything to heart. I obsess over everything and I always spend hours at night wondering if everyone else is ok with the things I've said and the things I've done.

I promise I still love you and I'll try to keep posting stuff.

Hope you guys are doing well too, 

-SamanthaK

What Should I buy: Sleeker Look

What Should I buy: Sleeker Look
As discussed before, most of the time women want volume.
However, if it’s not volume they want, it’s a sleek, shiny, healthy look.
And for those who want both, I normally try to keep a straight face while thinking,
Sure. Shall I also pull a unicorn out of my butt?
But for sleekness and shine- I promise it’s obtainable.
So if you read my previous post on volume, you’ll know I advised against oils, creams, etc-
-WHICH IS PERFECT FOR SLEEK AND SHINE.
Here’s the general breakdown of what’s happening when you see hair that shines like glass.
Imagine every hair on your head has a series of umbrellas. These umbrellas open when you use products that are alkaline (think hair color, clarifying shampoos, etc) and close when you use something acidic (think Brazilian blowouts, conditioners, etc).
So when hair is shiny and reflective, it means those umbrellas are closed, creating a perfectly flat strand.
SO TO SUM IT UP: Think Acidic.
Now, before I go on, let me say what I always say in situations like this.
Too much of a good thing is a bad thing.
You shouldn’t use a particular regime of hair products every day of your life. Too much keratin creates hair snapping (which we’ll talk about in a another post), too much oil creates an oil slick, and too much clarifying removes color and moisture.
If you’re using products to slick down the hair, make sure you clarify periodically to remove some of that buildup.
SO LETS GET TO THE FUN PART:
Staring from the beginning, you should think about shampoos and conditioners meant for sleek and shine. (Mind you, these types of products aren’t great for clarifying.)
If your hair is naturally frizzy and you want to kick it out, Alterna makes a smoothing set under their Bamboo line.
It includes the shampoo, conditioner, oil, and hairspray- which is kind of perfect for anyone who has hard time keeping non frizzy and curly hair from kinking back up through the day.
If you hair is naturally pretty straight and you’re just trying to keep shine- odds are you probably just need moisture.
I have a sneaky feeling you’re the girl who’s not using conditioner (“it makes my hair so flat!”).
Paul Mitchell’s Awapuhi Wild Ginger line is divine. It’s hydrating but it’s doesn’t leave greasy limp hair behind. It’s actually surprisingly lightweight. (The Keratin treatment is a great once a week thing to do, by the way).
Yes, they are a little pricey, but they’re pretty amazing.
And when it comes to styling products, think anything with some weight:
Creams/thicker mousse/serums:
Again, I love my awapuhi Hydrocream Whip and Paul Mitchell Skinny Serum (featured here in a Breast Cancer Awareness bottle) helps add some weight. The Alterna Brilliance Cream is great too.
And then, once your hair is completely dry and styled (IE, you already did any curling, flat iron work, etc) add some oil!
Why did I say to add oil after heat work?
Uhhh, hello, you ever fry anything in oil on the stove?
Please stop trying to deep fry your hair.
Here’s some of my favorite oils
If your hair is thicker, and absorbs product easily-
Paul Mitchell Awapuhi Styling Treatment Oil
Alterna Bamboo Kendi Oil
Schwartzkopf Oil Miracle (original)
Moroccanoil (original)
If your hair is a bit on the fine side, Moroccanoil and Schwartzkopf Oil Miracle have a light/blonde option that are both super nice.
Hopefully by now you have beautiful sleek curls or straight luscious locks.
Try not to let it go to your head (see what I did there?),
-SamanthaK

What Should I Buy: More Volume

What Should I Buy: More Volume
I think everyone has a big hard-on for having volume.
IMG_4895
I can’t blame you, I do too. I like making it seem like every hair on my head is standing up (probably because my head is actually slightly too small for my body and I’m compensating, but whatever).
And usually the action taken for GETTING the volume is to bust out the teasing brush/curling irons/etc.
IMG_5185
And you guys play and tease, and crunch and break your hair away- usually all in vain.
You know how many times I get the phrase, “I style my hair and it won’t stay. I have to tease and hairspray it to death to make the volume stay”.
My reaction is usually this:
IMG_0425
I do my best to hide my judgemental looks behind coffee sips.
Because here’s the deal, you’re doing it all wrong. Really.
You go for these crazy hydrating products- usually anything with keratin for some reason, and wonder why nothing holds.
Keratin and hydration means soft, supple, and most important- slippery.
Like, hellooooo, McFly!
So, now you’re probably asking- what do I do?
Here’s what we do. We first start with a shampoo and conditioner MEANT for volume. Think anything on the clarifying side and conditioners that are lightweight.
My favorite right now is the Alterna Bamboo Volume line.
First of all, the scent smells like a sexy man’s cologne. It’s so nice. I can’t even. Nomnomnomnom.
Secondly, the shampoo feels like it really lifts out dirt and oils that normally would weigh down my volume and the conditioner is hydrating but not heavy. It’s kind of the best of both worlds.
Now, if you’re like my mother and you feel like you have all of 3 hairs on your head- you might want to go for something like a strand plumper.
Again, Alterna makes a great one that falls under their bamboo volume line:
And if you want a little extra lift at the root, you could go for the Paul Mitchell Daily Boost root lifter spray or the Big Sexy Hair Root Pump Plus (which is more like a mousse)
And, try to skip things like oils, creams, etc- and try something more along a mousse formula like Paul Mitchell’s Sculpting Foam, or Extra Body Sculpting Foam (extra body has more hold- think of it like a hairspray vs a strong hold hairspray)
Now in terms of the blow dry- try blow drying your hair upside down, or away from where your hair would naturally lay to help give it that extra boost. Example: blow dry your bangs back and forth and then back away from your forehead for a second before laying them where they are supposed to be. There will be more volume, they’ll be springier, bouncier, etc.
Now when the style is set, you’ve added curls- etc, THEN is the time to add a little oil to the ends of your hair, or waxes or creams to seal in the ends. You don’t need all that oil at the top of your hair where you want the volume.
THEN, when you’re all finished and you feel like you need a little push, go for the teasing- but I have a feeling you won’t need much.
I hope you enjoy all that volume. Try not to let all that power go to your head,
-SamanthaK

What Should I Buy: My recommendations for you and your hair type

What Should I Buy: My recommendations for you and your hair type
#1 Question I get?
“What am I supposed to be using for colored hair/fine hair/limp hair/more volume/less volume/curls/etc”
It’s actually a bit of a loaded question because about 75% of the time the client genuinely has no idea what their hair type really is.
Crazy, right?
Like everyone should have at least a vague idea, but like defining what type of skin or acne you have- it can be troublesome to figure it out.
SO LET’S TALK BASICS:
First, lets talk about the wave pattern of your hair. This one is pretty easy- you have straight, wavy, curly or extra curly.
And don’t be fooled, sometimes you whole head does not fall in line. You may have parts that are straight and some wavy. It happens, and it’s totally normal.
Straight is as is implies- no bends, no waves.
Wavy- again, as it implies, it has soft bends. (Think beach waves, or how curls look on day 2)
Curly- Spirals, corkscrews. Shirley Temple goodness right there.
Fun fact: Finding a naturally curly celeb actually took me a moment. (Another good example would be t-swift).
Extra Curly- This is where it gets a tiny bit confusing because you’re like “Isn’t curly and extra curly the same”
Answer: no.
Extra curly is so curly that instead of making complete curl bends, it almost goes into a zig-zag shape. Think Lenny Kravitz, or Erykah Badu.
Can we just take a moment to bask in Erykah Badu’s beauty?
Ok, so now that we figured out our wave pattern. Let’s talk abouttexture.
Texture basically relies on your hairs’ actual thickness on just one strand of hair. This is where fine, medium, and coarse comes from. So if the strand feels thick, it’s coarse, “normal” is medium, andfine is when you can barely feel the hair strand at all.
What you really need to know from this is that fine hair is more prone to breakage during a chemical service like coloring or relaxers. Coarse hair is the opposite challenge- more difficult to process during chemical services. Medium hair, you’re in luck- there’s no special problems for you.
Next we talk about porous hair- one of the many hot bed issues in the salon.
Porosity is exactly as it says- how porous your hair is. Does it absorb a LOT of water, or only a little? Do you reapply product a lot and your hair just absorbs it like it never happened?
(If you want a quick test, get a cup of water, cut off a little of your hair and drop it in the water. If it absorbs like crazy and sinks- you got yourself porous hair. If it hangs out at the top- low porosity. And if it’s anything in between- it’s normal. )
If your hair feels dry, straw-like, brittle, or generally a bit rough- you need to stop whatever chemical process you’re doing and GIVE YOUR HAIR A DAMN BREAK.
I’m talking to you, blondie. Stop lightening your hair over and over again expecting it to get lighter (once you get to white I’m sorry, there ain’t no where to go from there), and let your hair just have a minute to breathe. 99% of the time when someone has dry, brittle hair- it’s because they keep slapping on the bleach.
Put some oils on your hair, stop using heat for awhile and give it a rest. Your blonde-erexia isn’t helping you anymore.
If you have dry hair and your excuse isn’t lightener- you may just need to switch up your products to something that imparts moisture. You’re probably just predisposed to be dry, especially if you live in a dry climate (California, Arizona, etc) or if you aren’t drinking enough water and insist on skipping conditioner for some reason.
Understand this when it comes to porosity- if your hair absorbs a lot- hair coloring might be difficult for you. You’ll end up with darker ends and lighter roots (unless you to go to a professional who knows what they’re doing and understands the basic rules of hair). Try to avoid box dye 1, because it’s bad for your hair and 2, your results are going to be insanely uneven.
Density (again like it implies) is how much hair is on your head. A lot? A little? Do you have to have you hair “thinned” or do you cringe at the idea of anyone cutting off the 3 hairs you have left on your scalp?
Reach back and stick your fingers in your hair at the scalp. Can you feel your fingers against each other or do you just feel a wall of hair?
Keep in mind, usually at the top of your head and around the temples is where you’ll have the lowest density. The highest is usually around the back of the neck or backsides of your head. And sometimes one side of your head will have more hair than the other.
Don’t worry, it’s totally normal.
And lastly, for kicks, elasticity. 
Really, this is just the hair’s ability to stretch without breaking. Much like a rubber band, hair is supposed to be able to stretch and is actually a tell-tale sign of it’s strength. It should stretch a little and then return to it’s normal state (like a rubber band). If it stretches a bit and doesn’t break- you’re good. If it breaks- you might need to start introducing products to build the strength back up.
Blondes- if you are lightening your hair and when you wash your hair- it feels stretchy like it’ll never go back to normal and has a gummy feeling. That’s not good. It doesn’t mean your hair is suddenly “so soft!” In fact, this is a terrible offense. It means your hair has officially jumped off a cliff and will never go back to normal. Try to deal with it til it grows out or cut it off. Sorry, but that’s what you get for overlapping lighteners and generally acting dumb.
Ok, so now that we’re at the end, what did we discover?
For reference, my hair is fine, VERY high density, and wavy. It’s pretty porous too because my hair and skin normally run dry. The elasticity is pretty good too because my hair is just a fighter like that.
So for the next few weeks, I’ll be going through hair products designed for all the natural hair types. Keep an eye out for yours!
And btw, I’m serious blondie- stop lightening your hair so much,
-SamanthaK

Professionalism in the Workplace

Professionalism in the Workplace or: how I learned to stop worrying and love the bomb
(No one will get that joke, and that’s ok).
I get asked a lot if I can take people along with me on events, like- taking an assistant who’s maybe still in school and needs the experience, or one of my friends who just hasn’t done a wedding/show/etc and wants to see what it’s all about.
Actually, I get asked a lot.
And while I would love to, let me tell you why some of you don’t receive phone calls.
You guys dress and act like damn hoochies.
I’m not kidding, I wish it was something more than that- but it’s not.
And if it wasn’t the flashing boobs and the shortest of skirts that did it- it’s the instagram and facebook pictures that did.
Oh yeah, you BEST believe if I’m getting paid to work a job and I bring you along- you are a reflection of me. You know I’m going to look through your facebook feed.
The minute I see your boobs, the minute I see drugs/bongs/etc, and the MINUTE I see 4 pages worth of drama- I’m out.
And look, I get it- you time is YOU time. You’re gonna pour yourself a glass of wine, or go out with your friends and believe me- I also partake in a little wine and party, BUT I DON’T LEAVE IT WHERE MY CLIENTS/BOSSES SEE IT.
You guys, I can’t even believe the stuff I find sometimes. It’s sort of embarrassing. I’m not even a legit hacker. I’m not even great at EASY computer work- but I can find things.
I’m like Willie Wonka- I like to take my group through a strange turn of events that show their true colors. And slowly but surely I will weed through until I find someone that I know won’t embarrass me somewhere I’m getting paid.
Sorry, I’m not sorry. I’m telling it like it is.
My rebookings for weddings in particular are really important to me, because it’s a high stress day that is extremely timely and they’re paying me quite a bit. I dress nicely, I act professional, and when the day is over- I let my smart mouth go wild. If you show up in a tiny club dress and start talking about ex-boyfriends, you’re out. I’m sorry, I have such limited tolerance for that. I’m not here to get you jobs (and I’m not here to let you lose mine), I’m here to show you how to make money by being a pro.
So let’s talk about the dress code first:
1) No Shorts at Work
This isn’t a rule that your school put in just to spite you. There’s a reason for it.
Shorts are CASUAL. They are way too casual, and on top of that the trends now make them VERY short. Do not wear short shorts to work- you are not a hoochie. (Shorts that are acceptable are capris. The end.)
(If you want real talk here, before I even started at my salon- my boss handed me my key and said, “I have 2 rules; no shorts, and your station better be clean”.)
2) You Are Not Competing for the World’s Shortiest Skirt Award
I’m serious you guys. I don’t know why suddenly because you don’t get to wear booty shorts you have to make up for it with a skirt that is as big as a tube top.
I’ll let you in on a secret and tell you exactly what my clients have told me about girls in short skirts.
“Girls who wear stuff like that are trying to distract us from the fact that they can’t work.”
This was said by a woman in head to toe cheetah print, mind you, but frankly I agree. If you have to wear something that leaves NOTHING to the imagination, you reek of insecurity and clients smell it a mile away. And their first thoughts go right to the fact that you probably don’t know what you’re doing. Real talk girls- you don’t need to dress like that at work. I bet you’re really amazing at what you do and your clothes are sending the wrong message. Don’t be a hoochie at work. Let your beautiful face and your wonderful work stand on it’s own. You don’t need skirts up to your bits and bobs.
3) Put Your Boobs Away.
Let me tell you what my hilarious boyfriend once said about a girl who used to cut his hair:
“…It was a terrible haircut. I mean like, really bad. And every time I went back it was just as bad. I didn’t have a good haircut for YEARS.”
“Why did you go back for so long?”
“Lowcut shirts. I could see literally 99% of her boobs and they always touched my head.”
That’s embarrassing, you guys. If you have a man that comes back to you for your boobs, that’s legit embarrassing. And you know what he tells his friends?
I’m not even going to sugar coat it. He will say, “There’s this hoochie/skank/etc at ______, the haircuts suck but you can see her boobs”.
Don’t be known like that you guys. Don’t do that to yourself. You’re too good to be the hoochie at a chop shop.
And let me add something here, before we move on from dress code. Know that I would never discriminate against someone with piercings, tattoos, etc. (Although I think anyone that knows me probably already knew that). But understand this, I DO discriminate against people who make it a thing. If piercings and tattoos are your life and it’s all you can talk about and you feel as though anyone who doesn’t have one must be AGAINST you for some reason and you act out with a giant chip on your shoulder- I will leave your ass at home.
And it’s not because you have tattoos.
It’s because you’re annoying.
And for non-dress code stuff:
1) Learn a Professional Voice
When a man walks into your shop and sits in your chair- do not smack his arm, do not get giggly and vapid, and for the love of God- don’t say, “Oh my God, you’re soooooo funneehhhh”.
Don’t, don’t do that. Unless you want that guy coming back and getting your number- there is no reason for it.
If you’re doing it for tips- you’re working too hard. Men on average tip higher and better than women- whether or not you were flirty.
And let me even put this out there, by acting like a flirt- he’s seeing you as “easy”. And I get it, speaking as a natural flirt- sometimes it just comes out whether we intended it as flirty or not- but keep this in mind. Women usually control their men when it comes to haircuts. If they want it short, it will be short and if they want it maintained a certain way- it shall be done.
So when a man sits in your chair- just assume he has a girlfriend and keep your boundaries. Better to rebook and be tipped well on service than for boobies. (Plus, we all know girls are crazy and the minute she finds out there’s a hoochie flirt at the shop- she will come in.)
And as for women in your chair, they want to talk about themselves (real talk here). If you get a mom (especially one with a) young children b) an upcoming wedding or c) a really stressful job), let them talk it out. They come to you for their own time. Let them get out what they really need to say. They are not paying you $100 to hear you talk about how you boyfriend left you (again) and all the disaster drama in your life. Women are not loyal in the chair- they will find somewhere else where there is a person who gives them peace of mind.
Summing it all up here- Clients want someone who talks professionally but knows when to step back and say, “It’s ok girl, I got your back.”
2) Understand That You Won’t Like Everyone Who’s in Your Chair, and Not Everyone in the Chair Will Love You
Keep it in check you guys. Do not get crazy, do not burn bridges, do not make a fool of yourself.
There will be clients who want nothing more than to make your life hell. It happens. AND IT HAPPENS EVERYWHERE. Doesn’t matter how much you charge or what part of town you’re in. Someone will hassle you on your prices, your work, etc. It just happens. These are people who probably have limited control on their own lives and so they have to take it out on you.
Just like the girl who comes in and cries when she sees her hair because she’s so happy- you will have the flipside.
Don’t get mad, don’t start pointing fingers.
-Start by asking what they would like changed.
If it’s a style, fix it, but if it’s something that’s big (like color) then offer to have them come in (WHENEVER IS BEST FOR THEM) and offer to change it for them.
-If they’re haggling you on prices, try to stay firm.
Much like children, clients will push about your prices. The minute you flex for them- they’re going to want that treatment all the time. Suddenly your appointment is $60 when you know it should have been $80.
And the trick that gets them:
If they start throwing out, “Well at THIS OTHER SHOP, it’s only $20 for haircuts”.
You say:
“That sounds like a great deal. If you want to book with them to get that amazing discount- go for it. I won’t be offended.”
And then let them know that your haircuts stay firm at $___.
I’ve never had a client leave my chair. It’s a bit of a weird move- because you’re basically encouraging them to go.
Again, much like children- they’re threatening to run away and you’re calling the bluff.
“You want to run away? Sure. You want a PB&J for the road?”
You feel like an ass, but I promise- if they haggle you once, they’ll do it over and over til you call them out.
And for women who come in and are just never pleased- understand that you have nothing to do with that. They are just in it to complain and it has nothing to do with what service you performed. Unless you sprayed water on them, turned them orange and slapped their mother- you probably did nothing wrong.
3) Drop the Ego, and Quick.
Look, I get it- we all come out of school thinkin’ we’re Tabatha Coffey/Takashi/Kim Kimble.
The truth is- we aren’t even close.
You will always have to go to new classes, you will always have to learn new trends, and you better trust and believe- there will always be someone bigger, badder, and better than you.
As stylists, we develop this rock star mentality that one day we’re going to be somebody and go places and the fact of the matter is- that’s only maybe. The odds are more likely that you will be the new kid in the salon and you will be low man on the totem pole.
I’ll let you in on a secret though- good hairdressers are confident, but not arrogant. We understand that the appointment isn’t about us. We’re merely a backdrop at the end of the appointment when the client is staring at herself in the mirror. We are about as important to a client has a blow-dryer. Understanding this quickly will set you up in a way that will humanize you, make you relatable. When the appointment is over and you’ve shown that you’re an amazing, glorified blow dryer and you’ve proven that this day wasn’t all about you- your client is more likely to pimp your name around town.
You want them saying that you made them feel amazing.
Getting your hair done is a luxury. It’s something women do to feel special. They want you to do magic that somehow gives them the same feeling as loosing 10 pounds, suddenly not having acne, or kissing their boyfriend.
And focusing on yourself and your big, fat ego has nothing to do with it.
Weeeelllll, that was longwinded wasn’t it?
Take my advice with a grain of salt and understand I’m not trying to brow beat you, or make you feel horrible. I want you to succeed.
-SamanthaK